Progenitor of the Weird Knife Wednesday feature column. Is “column” the right word? Anyway, apparently I also coined the Very Specific Object nomenclature now sporadically used in the 3D printing community. Yeah, that was me. This must be how Cory Doctorow feels all the time these days.
But then what will they make Pringles out of?
And it wants permissions to:
…And will throw an absolute hissy fit and refuse to load without explanation if you deny any of them.
I checked the numbers and this means your community is less dead than mine. What a drag!
My wife works at the local library. She got a DVD back the other day with a “please rewind media” sticker on the inside of the case.
So there are people in the world with no concept, and then there’s that.
In normal circumstances the radiator should be making no noise, so if it was making a noise and now it’s different there was an issue to begin with, or the noise is coming from elsewhere adjacent.
The coolant system is functionally sealed except theoretically the cap on the overflow bottle; coolant leaking out due to this is unlikely and even if it did, you would have seen coolant on the ground and probably spilled down the side of the bike as well. You would have to be extremely low on coolant to hear air going through the radiator, especially while you were riding. The coolant level is obviously easy to check, and do so, but I think you can rule this out.
Ensure that your radiator is mounted securely and is not loose. Also check that the radiator fan is not loose, and when running the fan blades are not striking anything including the cage around the fan itself, the face of the radiator, or the wire going to the fan.
Also check that nothing else was knocked loose in the tip-over and is now rattling. Plastics, brackets, mounts, lengths of any wiring harnesses, etc.
For instance, just wait until you get a load of what astronomers consider to be metals.
That is quite tough to see.
So, not a promotional one, just worn. Definitely an early one, before the additional features were added.
That certainly sounds plausible. There were also apparently promotional variants of these which did not have the Victorinox cross logo printed on the scales, in preparation for being engraved or silkscreened with the customer’s logo or whatever.
That may in fact be a Climber “Small.” What is the length of its body?
Early variants of the climber lacked the hook as does the smaller version of it which also lacks the toothpick/tweezers.
Ensuring that the Starfleet admiralty suffered… transporter accidents… and got replaced by somebody – anybody – with some kind of clue would be a good start.
I took a look at OP’s machine and it appears to be one of those deals with one big central hinge cover with upper and lower clamshell halves. So, we’re both sunk. It’s symmetrical in this case, but there is nothing to mirror. They will need to have an existing one (or all the bits and pieces of their busted one, maybe) to measure up and clone.
But yes, I have also seen laptops where the left and right hinges and/or their covers are different from each other.
Or if the parts are mirror images of each other for the left and right hinges, carefully measure the remaining intact one and flip it.
To my knowledge the Parallel has never changed. I have some very old examples, probably greater than 15 years, and two brand new ones. The parts all look identical in dimensions. The M2, then, may have changed at some point but I don’t have any data on that.
I hope part of this plan involves feeding the newly constructed Franken-pen with Pilot cartridges, because I would not trust an eyedropper pen with the wrong feed shoved into it not to leak…
What’s wrong with the Parallel body as-is? Too long for you?
Yeah, I had this one when I was a kid. “Man After Man: An Anthropology of the Future.”
It has some absolutely batshit illustrations. The one above is barely the start of it.
Uh… Has anyone checked to make sure this one isn’t explosive, too?
I imagine Musk is far too big of a pussy to actually abolish all Federal regulations. And if he does I’m installing an auto sear, a suppressor, a short barrel, and a pistol brace all on my gun at once. It’ll only take a couple of us doing that for you to see the fastest U-turn on that idea in history.
I can only imagine that the intent is to leave all of the regulations that restrict personal individual freedom in place and just gut all the ones preventing big businesses from exploiting you however they want. Or maybe just specifically the ones that are holding Musk’s own enterprises back, which is even more plausible.
You’re in the same boat as me, except swap 70’s for 1920’s. I have to tear down all the plaster – not drywall, actual literal plaster, on lath – to get at the ground floor wiring. I decided it’s fine where it is for now.
As your attorney, I advise you to buy a motorcycle.
As if it could be so easy. I’ll take the mountains of skulls and roaring plains of gore over whatever the fuck it is that’s going on now. Mere demons are simple, and are vulnerable to your shotgun.
Watertight and waterproof are not quite the same thing.
Almost all 3D printable materials are waterproof, in that they will not dissolve in water. (With the exception of, e.g., PVA which is sometimes used as a dissolvable support material.) I realize this is not the intent of your question, but a lot of people seem to get it twisted about various polymers absorbing moisture/being hygroscopic/becoming “wet” and therefore believe that they literally melt or soften in water over time or something. This is not the case.
3D prints can be made watertight but it does not necessarily follow that all of them are by default. This will be dependent on your print settings and, to a certain extent, your print material. Some materials are more isotropic than others and the layer lines stick together more readily without gaps. TPU leaps to mind, which can be made extremely watertight very easily.
Use a lot of walls – another poster recommended 4, that’s probably a good place to start. Don’t forget to increase your top and bottom layer counts as well. You may need more top or bottom layers than walls, because your layers are probably thinner in the Z axis than your nozzle extrudes in X and Y. If dimensional clearance is not an issue and in your case it seems it isn’t, consider increasing your extrusion multiplier slightly in the walls as well, to ensure that material is squished into any potential gaps. Avoid sharp corners or tiny points on your model, which upon slicing may be incompletely filled. Avoid long unsupported bridges as well, because the couple of layers where these inevitably sag will wind up non-solid. If possible, make the outer shell of your model an exact multiple of your wall extrusion thickness so your slicer will not have to guess at any areas and try to fill them with tiny points or similar. If you play back your slicer’s preview of a single layer you’ll see what I mean.
If you really want to employ the nuclear option, instruct your slicer to iron every single layer. This will make your print take forever, but each individual later will be extremely authoritatively bonded together in the X and Y axes, with no gaps.
If failure is not an option, coat your object after completion with Flex Seal or Plasti-Dip or something.